Monday, September 23, 2013

New Wrap Skirt

I made a skirt for myself today. This following draft is mostly for my usage, so if you do your own be sure to take your precise measurements!
   Measurements needed: a couple inches above natural waistline, hips
   Suggested fabrics (these are my dream fabric choices for this project. I may make it again if they're found!): bold rose print for base, navy blue/bright blue for waistband.
   Other notes: Length can be varied. This pattern has been constructed to sit on either the hips or the upper natural waistline. Have fun with designing your own waistband or, in this, cut one with a 3"peak that tapers to 1 1/2" at hips and back. (Meas. are before allowing for seam allowances).
My approach to sewing has kind of become THERE ARE NO RULES! Try to make: straight lines straight, curved lines curved, etc etc.) Double parentheses are suggested stitch length settings, but this also varies with fabric thickness, so determine that yourself.

1. Cut a 64" long, 18" tall piece of fabric. Hem LH edge inward about 5/8ths and sew along that, leaving 1" free at top of skirt. Cut thread.


     2. Starting at this point, sew ((@3 1/2)) with medium stitches, without backstitching, all along top, stopping 1" from end. Cut thread. Ruffle the skirt by pulling gently on one thread and moving the fabric evenly along. Distribute flounce and determine overlap on LH side of skirt. (You could do fun things like make the flounce concentrated on the hips, on the back, in only 4 areas, etc. Just make sure that during the next step you adjust the size of the stitch as you go over these thicker sections). Mark overlap (should be centred over hip), leaving about 1 1/2" to hem later. (It's a good idea to have the fabric that's folding under do so by about 9/10". This will place the underlapping edge in the front. Also it's a good idea to keep those 9" less ruffled than the rest of the skirt so it sits better).
     3. Lay waistband--I used two different fabrics (actually one was blanket binder), but one would be simpler--and skirt top right sides together. Pin and sew ((@2)) with medium-small stitches, taking care to sew below original gather thread. Cut thread. Carefully trim excess bunchiness from seams at waistband.

     4. Either tack down the shape you want for the waistband, folding the fabric over and giving a stiffer band, OR trim in that shape. Either way, slipstitch the edge in place by hand. Iron if necessary.
     5. Remember the 1 1/2" you left at the overlap edge? (Highlighted above in green). Turn it in nicely now, again using slipstitch. Remember, 1 or 2 threads at a time, check often. Also turn in this side of the waistband neatly. Do what you want with the waistband that will be hidden, but try to make it as flat as possible, turning it in neatly too.
     6. Position the skirt how you'd like it to sit. Pick out a button/buttons. Mark for buttonhole(s) and button placement with pins. Sew on and then carefully cut buttonhole using X-acto knife, fabric cutter, etc. Bind using one of these methods, depending on fabric: coletterie.com/tutorials-tips-tricks/handmade-buttonholes
Using a small hook and eye, secure underlapping waistband to outer waistband. Hem bottom of skirt, use bias tape, or put an edge or lace on it. Better pictures later. Haven't hemmed yet.

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